Differences

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--- radios:tait_tm8100 [2024/04/18 10:04] – alexswl
+++ radios:tait_tm8100 [2026/02/16 21:37] (current) – g5rkt
@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 | 25 | 3.5 |
-TODO: Check idle power
 TODO: VHF / UHF?
+(From Phil M0OFX) - Idle power while receiving and squelched is around 350 to 400 mA for a Band B1 TM8105 data radio. Radios with speakers and more complex control heads will be higher. 500 mA is probably a reasonable rule-of-thumb.
 ===== Pinout =====
@@ Line 77: / Line 77: @@
 The simplified pinout:
-| **Pin** | **Use** | **NinoTNC pin** |
+| **Pin** | **Use**                | ** Standard through-hole NinoTNC pin (9 pin D sub) ** | ** Surface-mount components NinoTNC pin (6 pin mini DIN) ** |
-| 7   | Transmit Audio (Input) | 1  |
+| 7       | Transmit Audio (Input) | 1               | 1                   |
-| 12  | PTT | 3  |
+| 12      | PTT                    | 3               | 3                   |
-| 13  | Receive Audio (Output) | 5  |
+| 13      | Receive Audio (Output) | 5               | 4 (9k6) / 5 (1k2)   |
-| 15  | GND | 6  |
+| 15      | GND                    | 6               | 2                   |
 {{:packet:nino-kantronics-db9-plug.jpg?200|}}
@@ Line 129: / Line 129: @@
 === Head Unit ===
-  * Remove the head unit by prying gently along the bottom edge between the seal and head unit plastic (page 34 Fig. 2.1 - {{ :radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual }})
+  * Remove the head unit by prying gently along the bottom edge between the seal and head unit plastic (page 34 Fig. 2.1 - {{:radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual}})
-  * Remove the 3 screws from the PCB (page 38 Fig. 2.4 part 7 - {{ :radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual }}), pull off the volume knob (this will separate easily with a firm pull, and will leave a metal retention spacer either on the spoke or in the knob. Don't lose this!) and release the three clips on the PCB retainer in the head unit (page 134 Fig. 6.4 - {{ :radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual }}), removing the PCB and speaker from the assembly. Take care to not disturb the exposed LCD as this will mis-aslign the zebra contact strips.
+  * Pull off the volume knob (this will separate easily with a firm pull, and will leave a metal retention spacer either on the spoke or in the knob. Don't lose this!) and release the three clips on the PCB retainer in the head unit (page 134 Fig. 6.4 - {{:radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual}}), removing the PCB and speaker from the assembly. Take care to not disturb the exposed LCD as this will mis-aslign the zebra contact strips.
-  * Remove the button membrane which may contain lots of dirt buildup. Remove the 4 plastic light pipes from the membrane, wipe them clean and set them safely aside. They are keyes in two directions, both which side of the membrane they sit on (square vs round) and orientation (teardrop shape) so you cannot re-inser them wrong without it fighting you.
+  * Remove the button membrane which may contain lots of dirt buildup. Remove the 4 plastic light pipes from the membrane, wipe them clean and set them safely aside. They are keyed in two directions, both which side of the membrane they sit on (square vs round) and orientation (teardrop shape) so you cannot re-insert them wrong without it fighting you.
   * Use a flat object such as a screwdriver to peel away and discard the felt sticker in the front plastic covering the speaker grille. This hides and sticks to dirt buildup which is practically impossible to clean away even using soap and water. This will not affect audio performance.
@@ Line 139: / Line 139: @@
   * Use warm, soapy water and a toothbrush to scrub the speaker grille and inner button holes of the front plastic toroughly, as well as around the rest of the inner plastic. This is safe to submerge. Rinse and ensure dried (a hairdryer on low here can help).
-  * Use warm, soapy water and a disposable cloth and toothbrush to gently clean the button membrane. Take care to not rub off the symbols, and do not scrub the black pads on the back as these are conductive contacts. This is safe to submerge. Rinse and ensure dried (don't use the hairdryer here, but pat and shake dry and leave tot he side for a while). Make sure you did not miss any water in the light pipe holes or between the buttons. You can replace the light pipes once dry.
+  * Use warm, soapy water and a disposable cloth and toothbrush to gently clean the button membrane. Take care to not rub off the symbols, and do not scrub the black pads on the back as these are conductive contacts. This is safe to submerge. Rinse and ensure dried (don't use the hairdryer here, but pat and shake dry and leave to the side for a while). Make sure you did not miss any water in the light pipe holes or between the buttons. You can replace the light pipes once dry.
-  * Re-insert the membrane, click back in the PCB (make sure the speaker alignment slot is correctly positioned) and make sure you put the screws back in. Failure to do so will result in the LCD being non or partially operational, as it relies on the pressure.
+  * Re-insert the membrane, click back in the PCB (make sure the speaker alignment slot is correctly positioned).
 === Chassis ===
-  * Remove the outer plastic casing using a flat tool of some kind (page 136 Fig. 6.5 - {{ :radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual }}) and wipe it clean with an anti-bac or scrub with warm soapy water.
+  * Remove the outer plastic casing using a flat tool of some kind (page 136 Fig. 6.5 - {{:radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual}}) and wipe it clean with an anti-bac or scrub with warm soapy water.
-  * Wipe down the exterior aluminium body using an anti-bac wipe, do not scrub or spray unless caution is taken not to get thios in any ports. Don't worry about the lip between the top and bottom halves as this is sealed with an o-ring.
+  * Wipe down the exterior aluminium body using an anti-bac wipe, do not scrub or spray unless caution is taken not to get this in any ports. Don't worry about the lip between the top and bottom halves as this is sealed with an o-ring.
   * Wipe between the fins of the rear heatsink.
@@ Line 156: / Line 156: @@
   * Gently wipe around the rubber on the power and expansion connector areas. These might need an anti-bac + flathead combo to reach.
-  * Remove the four screws on the top of the chassis and part the top plate from the radio (page 138 Fig. 6.6 - {{ :radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual }}). Clean the o-ring seal and chassis edge by wiping.
+  * Remove the four screws on the top of the chassis and part the top plate from the radio (page 138 Fig. 6.6 - {{:radios:mm8100-02-00-812_tm8100_mobile_radio_service_manual.pdf | TM8100 service manual}}). Clean the o-ring seal and chassis edge by wiping.
   * Check if your unit is fitted with an expansion board. If the red expansion connector is visible, the answer is no. If the answer is yes, ask us in the Discord what the board is and whether it is safe to keep. If in doubt, remove the board, as some boards will be detrimental to audio quality and will break Packet.
   * Ensure the o-ring is seated correctly and will not be pinched, then replace and screw down the top plate.
+=== Mic ===
+  * The mic is extremely simple and completely passive electronically, thus easy to disassemble. Remove the 4 rear screws and pry off the back cover.
+  * Unscrew the PCB and lift it gently, unplugging it from the cable.
+  * Very gently pull the mic out of the front plastic and set the PCB aside.
+  * Lift and remove the PTT plastic button and metal spring. Clean the PTT plastic button with an anti-bac.
+  * Remove and wipe down the rubber seal/button passthrough piece.
+  * Wipe the outer casings and run an anti-bac along the coiled cable. Make sure to clean the screw holes with an anti-bac and small screwdriver.
+  * The grille on the front of the radio is 99% for show with only a small hole for the mic itself. You can scrub this gently using a toothbrush and some kind of spray, though make sure you did remove the mic and separate away the PCB in the previous step. An anti-bac probably won't go deep enough. I used 99.9% IPA successfully but this is not advised as it can be harsh, but is very effective at removing grime.
+  * Reattach the rubber seal, place back in the spring and PTT plastic button, reinstall the PCB (there are wire routing channels for the mic wires), and screw the mic together.
 ====== Packet Configuration ======
@@ Line 237: / Line 255: @@
 {{ :radios:tn-919_an_configuring_the_tm8100_for_data_operation.pdf | Configuring the TM8100 for data operation }}
+{{ :radios:tm8100-protocol-manual.pdf | Computer-Controlled Data Interface (CCDI) Protocol Manual }}
+===== CCDI commands =====
+ModelAndCcdiVersion: q010FE\\
+QuerySdm: q011FD\\
+Version: q013FB\\
+SerialNumber: q014FA\\
+Cctm_PaTemperature: q0450475B\\
+Cctm_AveragedRssi: q0450635D\\
+Cctm_RawRssi: q0450645C\\
+Cctm_ForwardPower: q0453185A\\
+Cctm_ReversePower: q04531959\\
+Gps: q016F8\\
+Display: q0270C6\\
 {{tag>radio packet vhf uhf 9600 1200}}
+===== Audio frequency response (mV/Hz) =====
+{{:radios:tm8100-af-response-curve.png|}}
+[[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1O_LjKFKb_dCBFBqzZ0ZoZNVxEUT5ktLyQf1UXCmehZs/edit?usp=sharing|Raw data]]
+====== Rack Ears ======
+d printable model for 10" rack ears here: https://www.printables.com/model/1334607-tait-tm8110-10-inch-rack-ear
+====== SDR Tap ======
+Tom M0LTE, Eoin M0NVK, Jason G5RKT and Matthew 2E0SIP had [[https://discord.com/channels/715554730323083274/1365420096020807701|some discussion on discord]] on where best to tap the Tait's first IF. An [[https://www.sdr-kits.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=88_84&product_id=162|hupRF buffer board]] from SDRKits will provide a high impedance tap to avoid loading down the IF and a low impedance buffer output to drive the SDR and fits nicely into the radio.
+VHF IF: 21.400MHz\\
+UHF IF: 45.100MHz
+Open up the radio and observe the beauty, it's about to be destroyed forever. First step is to remove the can on top of the IF mixer / filter stage:
+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-boardlayout.jpg?960|}}\\
+To remove the filter can start snipping away with a small, flat-faced pair of sidecutters towards the corners. The corners are unbonded so you will be left with four flat-sided bits of can which can be de-soldered separately from the board.
+The tap point is after the first IF amplifier filter, XF401. This is in the same location on both the VHF and UHF models:
+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-ifcan.jpg?960|}}\\
+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapdetail.jpg?960|}}\\
+The buffer board fits in the space left by the can and leaves enough space to solder in the tap wire.
+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapoverview.jpg?960|}}\\
+Adding some extra shielding is probably a good idea. This little bit of copper extends up to the tap board, where the idea is to use the underside ground plane of the tap board to act as the top of the can. Can't hurt... DC / RF ground can be picked up from all over the place so I just soldered in every available spot. The shield can be soldered down to the other shield cans, and the edge meeting the board soldered back down to the pads left by the original can.
+There's a dimple in the casting of the top case / cover which can be drilled out and an SMA installed:
+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-smaconnector.jpg?960|}}
+And all finished up. I ran a power wire straight from the 12V connector, but there's probably a better place to grab power from!
+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapfinished.jpg?960|}}\\
+(Yes, I removed the blob of solder on top of the tap board's C6 after taking the picture! Check yo board!)
+I took some pains to replace as much of the shielding as possible and properly bond the tap board to every available ground - who knows if it was necessary but the receiver seems to have exactly the same performance as before.