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radios:tait_tm8100 [2026/02/15 23:03] g5rktradios:tait_tm8100 [2026/02/16 21:37] (current) g5rkt
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 UHF IF: 45.100MHz UHF IF: 45.100MHz
  
-Open up the radio and observe the beauty, it's about to be destroyed forever. First step is to remove the can on top of the IF filter:+Open up the radio and observe the beauty, it's about to be destroyed forever. First step is to remove the can on top of the IF mixer / filter stage:
 {{:radios:tm8110:t8110-boardlayout.jpg?960|}}\\ {{:radios:tm8110:t8110-boardlayout.jpg?960|}}\\
-To remove the filter can start snipping away with a small, flat-faced pair of sidecutters towards the corners. The corners are unbondedso you will be left with four flat-sided bits of can which can be de-soldered separately from the board.+To remove the filter can start snipping away with a small, flat-faced pair of sidecutters towards the corners. The corners are unbonded so you will be left with four flat-sided bits of can which can be de-soldered separately from the board.
  
 The tap point is after the first IF amplifier filter, XF401. This is in the same location on both the VHF and UHF models: The tap point is after the first IF amplifier filter, XF401. This is in the same location on both the VHF and UHF models:
 {{:radios:tm8110:t8110-ifcan.jpg?960|}}\\ {{:radios:tm8110:t8110-ifcan.jpg?960|}}\\
-{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapdetail.jpg?960|}}+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapdetail.jpg?960|}}\\ 
 +The buffer board fits in the space left by the can and leaves enough space to solder in the tap wire.
  
-The buffer board fits in the space left by the can and leaves enough space to solder in the tap wire: 
 {{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapoverview.jpg?960|}}\\ {{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapoverview.jpg?960|}}\\
-Adding some extra shielding could be optional but is probably a good idea. This little bit of copper extends up to the tap board, where the idea is to use the underside ground plane of the tap board to act as the top of the can. Can't hurt... DC / RF ground can be picked up from all over the place so I just soldered in every available spot.+Adding some extra shielding is probably a good idea. This little bit of copper extends up to the tap board, where the idea is to use the underside ground plane of the tap board to act as the top of the can. Can't hurt... DC / RF ground can be picked up from all over the place so I just soldered in every available spot. The shield can be soldered down to the other shield cans, and the edge meeting the board soldered back down to the pads left by the original can.
  
 There's a dimple in the casting of the top case / cover which can be drilled out and an SMA installed: There's a dimple in the casting of the top case / cover which can be drilled out and an SMA installed:
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 And all finished up. I ran a power wire straight from the 12V connector, but there's probably a better place to grab power from! And all finished up. I ran a power wire straight from the 12V connector, but there's probably a better place to grab power from!
-{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapfinished.jpg?960|}}+{{:radios:tm8110:t8110-tapfinished.jpg?960|}}\\ 
 +(Yes, I removed the blob of solder on top of the tap board's C6 after taking the picture! Check yo board!)
  
 I took some pains to replace as much of the shielding as possible and properly bond the tap board to every available ground - who knows if it was necessary but the receiver seems to have exactly the same performance as before. I took some pains to replace as much of the shielding as possible and properly bond the tap board to every available ground - who knows if it was necessary but the receiver seems to have exactly the same performance as before.
radios/tait_tm8100.1771196631.txt.gz · Last modified: by g5rkt